Thursday 26 April 2012

Closing comments...

Given some recent additional 'exposure' of my blog, I thought I would add a final posting with some general thoughts for a wider audience.

The distillery experience is exactly that - an opportunity to take part in many aspects of the Kilchoman business.

I would say you get out what you put in. The week is relatively unstructured, but I just followed the natural schedule of the team; malting, mashing, distilling and filling, and helping out wherever I could. Of course, I couldn't take on any significant responsibility, but I felt that I at least made a contribution.

I spent most of my time with Tony & Gavin, both of whom were extremely patient, genuinely interested in helping me get the most out of my week, and completely committed to the success of the business, the quality of the products and the continuity of the overall Kilchoman experience.

John also gave his time freely, sharing his knowledge and expertise.

My days were full of humour. We also had wide ranging discussions all manner of topics.

I ended up learning a lot about whisky, Islay, and Kilchoman. I also learned a little about myself, which is a great testament to the wonderful people I met.




Friday 20 April 2012

Time to go home...

I spent the afternoon helping to decant some 4 year old whisky from bourbon casks in to hogsheads (whopping great barrels, 4ft high). John McLelland, the distillery manager kindly gave me a sample to keep (although in a very medicinal looking glass bottle). It tastes wonderful.

I also bought a few bottles, one of which I got Tony, Gavin and John to sign.

Then it was time for some truly awful photos of the three of us, a quick walk around to say goodbye to everyone, and I was on my way.

On the drive back to the hotel I remembered that I wanted to put something on the blog but have kept forgetting. Ever since I arrived on Islay last Sunday I've noticed that people driving in cars wave at me as they pass. At first I wondered if there was something wrong with my car, or that maybe they mistook me for someone else, but I quickly realised that in fact they were simply acknowledging me. It isn't a big wave, and in fact I think some drivers try to be as minimal as possible, barely twitching a single finger from the top of the steering wheel, but it's a wave nonetheless, and a very welcome reminder that this a simple small community of friendly generous people.

Well, folks, that's nearly it for this broadcast. You've been tuned to my Islay Experience, brought to you by the kind generosity of my Lodge guests all the way back in November. I hope you've enjoyed reading my posts, and that you've got a small taste of what it's been like to spend a week here.

It's an understatement to say it has has been a memorable trip, and I think it will take me quite a while to bring all my recollections into some sort of order, with photos and videos galore.

However, I would recommend that next time we meet, if I start saying, "When I was on Islay..." you should stop me and change the subject, otherwise we might be there for some time. Unless, of course, we have some whisky to share...

Hope to see you all soon.

Al



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Believe it or not, this morning was the first time I actually tasted some Kilchoman whisky. I've been smelling and sipping the spirit coming off the still all week, but today Tony and I finally did a tasting of four different whiskies from the Kilchoman range. And, yes, it was 10am...

I'm no connoisseur, but I managed to spot some the aspects of the different tastes that Tony was pointing out. It's much easier when you're making direct comparisons, but it's clear I don't have a professional 'nose'. It was no less enjoyable, though, and now I know which bottles I'd like to buy.

So, all that's left is a wander around the shop, maybe some photos with the guys, and then make the last journey back to Bridgend.

I'll get packed up tonight, settle my hotel bill (ouch) and then have everything ready for a reasonably quick departure straight after breakfast. The ferry leaves at 9:30 in the morning, but it's only a 10 minute drive from the hotel to the terminal at Port Askaig, so it won't be too much of a rush.

I hope to post some final comments tonight, then I'll try to load some photos and videos for you to see.



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Thursday 19 April 2012

Beaches, gardens and gossip

Machir Bay is the name of the new release from Kilchoman, named after the amazing beach just down the road from the distillery. I made a quick trip down there this afternoon and it is indeed spectacular. A wide expanse of sandy beach, dunes behind, and then rocky cliffs.

On returning to the distillery (I felt guilty because Gavin was still finishing off the cask filing from this morning), Tony told me about an equally amazing bay just a mile up the coast. This one was called Saligo Bay (Islay Ales has named their summer lager after this place), and I decided to try it after work. The attached photos, taken with my iPad, really don't do it justice, but I'll put some better photos on Dropbox when I get back.

Both these beaches were beautiful, but deserted, which made the feeling of remoteness even more profound.

Back in the hotel I grabbed a beer (Saligo Bay, of course) and sat in the garden.

Even if the rest of the UK is rather damp and cold, I can sit in this peaceful setting, soaking up the evening sunshine, at 7pm, reading my book and listening to the birds.

I chatted to Robert, the barman, and Rasa, the front of house manager (who comes from Lithuania and is the partner of Kevin the chef), and Becky, the waitress, who originally comes from Coventry. I've discovered that Tony is going out with Hazel who is the daughter of Grete, another of the barmaids at the hotel who I spoke to last night. And even more bizarre, that the landlady of the B&B that Alexis and I stayed in last time we were here is actually Tony's Aunt.

You have to be careful what you say around here...

Tomorrow is my last full day on the island. You can probably imagine how I feel about that...










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A filling day

I had to scrape the frost off the car this morning, but it was a beautifully clear start to the day. I stopped on the way over to take some video of the view across to Jura. It was spectacular, not only for the light but also the peace & quiet. Just the sound of the birds and the sheep.

Its been a very busy morning, moving casks, painting casks, filling casks. I've put 150litres of new spirit at a time (the spirit that we distilled earlier this week) into barrels that previously held sherry and bourbon. It won't see the light of day again for at least 3 years, probably more like 10. It's completely clear when it goes into the cask, all the colour will come from the inside surface of the wood, but it still smells fantastic.

And if anyone wants to buy a single cask of Kilchoman 2012, you should know that I filled casks 195, 196 and 197. You may want to avoid those ones...

That's it for now. I may take a trip down to the beach this lunchtime, or try a small tasting with Tony, or fill some more casks with Gavin, who knows? The world is my langoustine.

Oh, and I'm so glad that my liver is back in touch again. I was beginning to worry that I'd killed it completely after my extensive Islay Ales project last night.

Ttfn



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Wednesday 18 April 2012

Odd people...

This trip is all about 'experiences' and I'm certainly getting my fair share.

This afternoon I went to another distillery, Bruichladdich, to have a look a round. I have liked their whisky since Alexis first bought me a bottle as a wedding present. I've also been collecting some of their rarer bottles, but one particularly valuable one was worrying me because it has no number printed on it. (It should say something like No 1234 of 3000, but my bottle is blank). If it wasn't genuine then it was worth nothing.

I took it with me today and at first the ladies in the visitor centre were reluctant to make any definitive comment about it, though when they compared it to one of their own they were certain it was ok. One of them, Helen, offered to take me to see the guys in the bottling department to see what they thought. As we walked acros the yard we saw two men walking towards us and Helen said, "Oh, maybe Jim can help". I then realised that I was being introduced to the Master Distiller, Jim McEwan, who is quite a name in this industry. He's bluff, straight talking, no nonsense, and didn't fiddle around. He looked over the bottle, said it was fine, then took me inside, and signed the bottle for me.

So, not only do I have a genuine bottle of Port Charlotte PC5, it's now autographed by the guy who made it.

From Bruichladdich my next stop was Islay Ales. The brewery is about the size of my kitchen, and the adjacent shop only slightly larger. I got chatting to brewer, shopkeeper, and delivery man, Steve, who was an interesting guy in himself, having formerly worked at Bruichladdich.

While we were chatting and sampling some of the beers, the lady from the chocolate shop next door came in with a big jar of Rhubarb & Custard sweets. They were very tasty, but a terrible mix with the real ale. She was as mad as anyone I've met on Islay. I didn't learn much from her other than that her favourite word of the moment was 'behemoth'. I offered 'serendipity' as a possible next favourite word, which I think she appreciated. She returned to her shop, I bought a case of Islay Ales, and then left.

Even though Alexis might have liked some local chocolates, I decided not to drop in to the shop, just in case I got into another discussion about interesting words - we could have been there for hours!

I don't know whether it's the weather, the remoteness, or the whisky fumes, but there are some fantastically interesting people around here, if a little crazy. I feel like I could fit right in!

Now I'm off to take some photos. Cheerio!



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The hailstones are hammering into the roof of the visitor centre and I think the weather has discouraged the visitors - I'm here having lunch on my own.

When it was dry earlier this morning I helped Gavin shift some empty casks ready for filling tomorrow. There's no chance I would try to shift the full ones. Gavin's rightly concerned that I would lose several fingers and I'm not sure the borrowed steel- toe-capped boots would offer much help if a 250litre barrel landed on my foot.

The warehouse reminds me of one of those little plastic puzzles where you have to keep moving the pieces around in order to make a picture, but there's only one gap.

The warehouse is completely full, so to access a particular cask requires a whole lot to be taken out, moved around, slotted into little nooks and crannies, extracting the one you want, before stacking it all back again. In the meantime you might need to move a pallet of empty bottles past all the casks you've just shifted and you find there's no space. It's mad, but it's all part of the philosophy (right or wrong) to maintain the authentic process, the complete end-to-end production at 'cottage industry level', rather than go for large scale automated 'manufacture'.

I managed to stay awake longer last night, which gave me the opportunity to have the kind of chat with people that can only happen if you're sitting in a bar on your own. It's a completely different dynamic, and actually rather enjoyable.

Do I really need the return ticket for the ferry on Saturday...?


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